So there’s this hole in the ground…
Colleen and I went to the Grand Canyon today. We left
Bullhead about 2 AM and headed north east to the Grand Canyon, which put us
there about 5:15. Driving through the park, in the dark, on a road with no
street lights was wild. I turned off my headlights (briefly) and was astounded
at how dark it got, as the sky was covered with a layer of clouds I’ll
reference in a few. But as we were discussing the dark, and the difference
between the Canyon (at 7000ish feet) and Bullhead (at 500), I realized what the
real difference was.
“Colleen…TREES!”
We were both shocked. It’s funny how fast you get used to
scrub brush and rocks and not trees and shrubs. We kept on the lookout for elk,
but were disappointed as we were much too early to really see anything beyond
my headlights. We parked at the main lot, just off of Mather Point, which
Colleen mentioned to me is a great first view of the Canyon.
Boy…was she right. Even before the sun came up, Mather Point
and the Rim Trail on the South Rim were breathtaking. We positioned ourselves
with about fifty to seventy other people to watch the sun come up through the
clouds and illuminate the Canyon, and then all of us snapped away wildly for a
few moments before the sun disappeared behind the clouds again. I’ve seen some
great sunrises…LBI at the lighthouse, the various prairie sunrises on my way
across the nation, Talbot Island State Park in Florida, the Atlantic Ocean from
Smithbauer’s boat…but this one was hard to beat. After the sun came up, we
headed back to the car, had some breakfast and prepared to hike down the Rim
Trail for a bit.
**Before the sun came up, after we had been at the Canyon
edge for roughly five minutes, Colleen uttered my favorite line of the day. My
eyes were glued to the giant hole in the ground, trying to take it in and
understand the scale…and I catch Colleen out of the corner of my eye staring
the opposite direction at a scrubby little juniper. “I love this tree,” she
exclaims. I find her difficult not to like**
Our hike along the Rim Trail was certainly two things…breathtaking
and wet. It rained. A cold, cold rain that was often sideways, so I hid my
camera under my Rowan cap and soldiered on through it. We stopped to identify a
few trees along the way, and check out some little tuft eared squirrels that
were running about, and made it Pipe Creek Vista just in time to realize that
the Canyon was full of fog and the rain wasn’t going to stop. Thankfully, a
shuttle (free inside the park) pulled up just after we snapped a picture and we
were able to ride back the mile rather than hike. This led us to a little café shoppe,
some coffee and tea, and a veggie breakfast burrito that really wasn’t bad at
all.
After breakfast and a foray into the visitor’s center and
bookstore (where I bought a new map for my wall…) we headed the opposite
direction down the Rim Trail. More stunning vistas followed, and we made
friends with a few people from around the world who were amused by the fact
that I was taking several photos of Colleen’s boots on the edge of the Canyon
(including tying them together and hanging them from a scrubby little pine that
was clinging to life) for her. Our ultimate goal was the trailhead of the
Bright Angel Trail…because that’s the place to go to look for the California
Condor, a critically endangered scavenger in the vulture family. And while we
did not get to see one up close, we did see one soaring over the Canyon…and had
to debate for a few moments whether it was a Condor halfway across or an
airplane all the way across. Then it flapped and came close enough for us to be
sure. Very, very cool.
We hiked the Bright Angel Trail just a little…by that point
we’d hiked almost five miles and were more or less exhausted. So we headed up
to the shuttle stop and prepared to head back to the visitor’s center and drive
on to Flagstaff. Except, along the way, the driver spotted a bull elk.
I will repeat that. The driver spotted A BULL ELK.
We hopped off the shuttle and rushed over to see him. Un.
Real. Huge. So huge. Huge rack. He fed along one side of the road, decided he
was done, wandered across the road, fed there, and then knocked some branches
down with his antlers. As he fed he worked his way away from the road, and we
wandered off to leave him in peace as well.
After that it was on to Flagstaff, a great brew pub, and a
questionable motel room. Tomorrow, we strike out for Hoover Dam and Las Vegas,
and I prepare myself to drop Colleen at the airport Tuesday morning and make it
down to MVJH in time for work.